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The family resort

Indian Wells has all the needed amenities.

By Craig Reem Published: March, 2004

As we walked into our Palm Springs-area resort, a dad was giving his 4- or 5-year-old some tips in the parking lot. Going to be a big day, and the lad seemed to be taking to it. He had his own junior golf clubs.

We had arrived in Indian Wells at a resort that, like many others, is catering to the growing numbers of families who now eschew the faraway vacations in favor of places closer to the front door. This phenomenon is in part the result of September 11. Studies show that Americans are less comfortable going outside their borders, with the exceptions of Canada and Mexico. Instead, they are finding ­ rediscovering ­ the virtue of America’s highways and byways. And they are demanding that if they are going to bring their children, by golly, there had better be plenty of things to do amid an atmosphere that allows for some romping.

The Palm Springs, Palm Desert, Indian Wells area has become one of the bright spots of this renaissance. Yes, it helps to play golf in this area, as golf is king and as obvious as the original in these parts ­ the desert sand.

We chose the Renaissance Esmeralda Resort and Spa in Indian Wells to test the theory that there is room for everyone. Certainly it is clear why the resort is pushing hard for family travelers. Frankly, its core customer is aging. But there is nothing wrong with that mix here. There is plenty to do for people of all ages, whether it is for the more physical activities ­ tennis, golf, swimming ­ or the more leisurely pursuits, such as dining and shopping in Palm Desert, Rancho Mirage and Palm Springs. Not too far from where an elderly gentleman rested, fast asleep on a shaded lounge chair, a couple of kids were romping in the sandy beach area of the multiple-level, interlocking pools.

The pool here is to die for, from a 1-foot-deep wading area to the lengthy sections for the serious lap swimmer. Two spas allow for the quieter crowd and the crowding of families. It’s a swimming pool bonanza.

Inside, amid the comfortable chairs in the soaring lobby with a double-staircase, the space is an invitation to bring out a book and read, or read to the children.

Once outside and in the car, there is much to do in this region, some two hours from central Orange County. The resort is a great place to rest, swim, play golf, have a couple of meals and then use as a launching area. As you can see from the accompanying information, coming to the desert is not a bad idea. And spring might be the best time, weather-wise, to enjoy numerous outdoor areas.

What to do
Here is one list of family-oriented options:

• Aerial Tramway. Right outside Palm Springs, this takes you high above the desert to a mountaintop where, during several months of the year, you’ll find snow. The ride’s the thing, rising more than 2 1/2 miles to Mount St. Jacinto State Park. Once on top, you can picnic, hike and, with reservations, camp. A restaurant is open for lunch and dinner. Information: 760.325.1449 or www.pstramway.com

• The Living Desert in Palm Desert. This 1,200-acre area allows the entire family a glimpse of native and exotic animals, beautiful gardens and scenic trails. Lots of daily activities. Check your hotel for coupons. Information: 760.346.5694.

• Children’s Discovery Museum. In Rancho Mirage, the museum is a hands-on, interactive kind of place. This includes Dig It, an archaeological dig where children can search for Indian artifact replicas. Information: 760.321.0602 or www.cdmod.org

• For the more rugged family, you might consider some of the options offered through Palm Springs Tours, including hot air ballooning and jeep adventures. Information: 877.656.2453.

• Other ideas: Knott’s Soak City, Palm Springs (760.327.0499) and Palm Springs Air Museum (760.778.6262).

• Cabazon Outlets is along the highway en route back to Orange County. Lots of clothes for the whole family.


IF YOU GO:

• We stayed at the 560-room/suite Renaissance Esmeralda Resort and Spa in Indian Wells. Information: 760.773.4444 or renaissanceesmeralda.com. There are “Dive In” movies poolside on Saturday summer evenings and a Kid’s Camp, for ages 5-12, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays (in summer, it is extended to Fridays as well). Certified and bonded babysitting services are available through the front desk. Rates from about $250; after Memorial Day weekend, rates drop to $195, $139 and $99.

• Dining: We ate dinner at Charisma, the resort’s casual dining restaurant, where children 10 and under eat for free. Ask for the children’s menu; your adult meal will be excellent. There also is a sunset menu to further pare the price of dinner. The large dining room helps cushion all the exuberance, if your family tends to send out the noise vibes. A breakfast buffet is served daily (6:30-11 a.m, Sundays to 1 p.m.) with hot and cold choices; this is a good idea to fill up the children for several hours. In the immediate area, there are restaurants galore that mimic Fashion Island, South Coast Metro, Irvine Spectrum Center areas, including The Yard House, California Pizza Kitchen, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and P.F. Chang’s China Bistro. Fine dining is a staple in these parts.

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