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The Aloha State

'Ohana' means family as well as fun.

By OC FamilyPublished: April, 2006

When  children who go loco over locomotives ride Maui’s Sugar Cane Train these  days, they spy with their little eyes Lahaina’s vibrant vegetation, majestic  mountains and stunning shoreline, but not the train’s namesake.

Sugarcane  hasn’t been harvested in these parts since 1999, and there are no signs of a rebound. With Del Monte’s recent announcement that it is ceasing pineapple operations in Hawaii, the tropical fruit might soon join the sugarcane on the state’s  list of endangered symbols.

Fortunately, hula dancers, surfers and palm trees are still abundant in the No. 2 favorite vacation destination for American families, trailing only theme-park-dotted Orlando. Walt Disney World is all well and good, and “Hakuna Matata” rocks over “Tiny Bubbles,” but, if given the choice between Hawaiian shirts or mouse ears, my family will wear the former, “mahalo” very  much.

Hawaii is the ultimate promoter of togetherness, thanks to an “aloha spirit” philosophy built on charm, warmth and sincerity. The state’s perfect climate and stunning beauty are bonuses. But let’s be as clear as the water off Molokini: some islands in this paradise of the Pacific are more “‘ohana-friendly” than  others. Welcoming families with the sincerest of alohas are Oahu, Maui  and Hawaii, the latter dubbed the Big Island to avoid confusing it with  the entire state.
 
Oahu

For the family that doesn’t mind Disneyland in summer or Chuck E. Cheese’s on weekends, crowded, congested, but nonetheless legendary Waikiki Beach in Honolulu might be your cup of mango tea. Waikiki, the hub of Hawaii’s  most comprehensive selection of attractions, is an exciting vacation base where swimming, surfing and snorkeling are all within an elevator ride and  a short stroll.

This side of Oahu offers families variety, affordability (even by Hawaii’s  pricey standards) and the convenience of having restaurants, first-run  movies and Polynesian entertainment close at hand.
Since Waikiki tends to be where the most economical Hawaiian vacation packages originate, this semi-spoiled slice of heaven draws the greatest concentration of tourists. So there’s  a reason the place feels less like paradise and more like Adventureland.

There’s no Jungle Cruise on the island known as “The Gathering Place,” but hippos, rhinos and other nature friends can be found at the impressive Honolulu Zoo in Waikiki. The 43-acre attraction near Kapiolani Park takes pride in being the only zoo in the United States to be established through royal grants, not that such visitor favorites as the Sumatran Tiger and Great Horned Owl give a hoot about King Kalakaua’s  legacy.

Want to get out of the habitat habit? The barriers between man and animal are removed at Sea Life Park, a popular attraction 15 miles west of Waikiki. “Keiki” (children)  as young as 4 can caress and kiss a dolphin from a waist-deep platform.  Encounters with nature of a more adventurous nature are available to  older children, like dives to mingle with sea turtles, stingrays and  tropical fish.

A must-see for the  first-time visitor is the Polynesian Cultural Center, where in one  afternoon you can visit seven diverse  islands  well, sort of. The attraction is broken up into island zones, each featuring such cool children’s  activities as coconut cracking, poi ball juggling and Tahitian dancing.

A history lesson awaits your family at the USS Arizona Memorial, the final resting place for 1,177 crewmen of the battleship sunk during the 1941 Japanese air raid on Pearl Harbor. Take your time here and treat it with respect. Prepare your children for a solemn remembrance, and do not skip the visit for more snorkeling.

Maui
 
From high atop 10,023-foot Haleakala to sea level along Maui’s 120 miles of shoreline, “The Valley Island” is  a paradise for the family desiring an array of accommodations and activities,  but more serenity than what Oahu may offer.

First order of business: Stay along Kaanapali Beach, just north of the old whaler village of Lahaina. A range of family-oriented hotels sport fun and convenience with the unpretentiousness that grounded parents appreciate. Plus, you can’t beat the ease and relative safety of snorkeling off Black Rock. Thanks to this natural breakwater within a shell’s  throw of the Sheraton Maui, youngsters equipped with only a mask and curiosity  can observe marine life just a few yards from shore.

The largest tropical reef aquarium in the  Western Hemisphere, the Maui Ocean Center introduces to thousands of  indigenous sea friends ranging  from the majestic lionfish to the peculiar Hawaiian garden eel.

The best luau in Hawaii also is here. The  Old Lahaina Luau wins for presentation, authenticity, hospitality, music,  dancing, costumes,  food and value. Another recommendation: The Sugar Cane Train, despite the  absence of sugarcane along its route, is a must for the child who adores  Thomas the Tank Engine.

The Big Island
 
For the Goldilocks-type family that thinks Oahu is too hectic and Maui is too uncomplicated, the Big Island might be just right. Larger than all of the other islands combined, Hawaii is graced by steaming Mauna Loa and snow-capped Mauna Kea, both natural wonders worthy of a closer look. But the Big Island isn’t big enough to avoid having a congested tourist town. That would be Kailua-Kona, a seaside village on the island’s  hotel-festooned west coast.

The less spoiled North Shore and neighboring Hamakua Coast are adorned by ancient valleys and waterfalls that drop thousands of feet to pools below. To the south is the modest city of Hilo, gateway to the Big Island’s No. 1 must-see, Volcanoes National Park. Lava has been flowing here for nearly a quarter-century, thanks to Kilauea, the world’s  most active volcano.

While  in Hilo, check out the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden just  north of town. Nestled in the lush Onomea Valley, the rain-forest  garden is home to more than 2,000 different species of plants,  and is unarguably one of the most beautiful places in Hawaii.

Back in Kailua-Kona, the northwestern portion of hotel row features Dolphin Quest, one of the world’s largest natural dolphin habitats and where children as young as 5 can swim with the stars. Make sure the camcorder has plenty of battery life when your child says “aloha” to a dolphin and gets a response in whistles and clicks that’s  sealed with a kiss.

Regular contributor David Dickstein and his wife took their sons,  ages 12 and 10. For Letters: ocfamily.com and click on  Feedback.

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