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Cruising in the Western Caribbean No swashbuckling with pirates on this trip to the Caribbean, but that’s about the only adventure our family didn’t have on a recent 7-day cruise aboard the Carnival Miracle. Our “Exotic Western Caribbean” cruise out of Tampa was aboard the 2-year-old, 2,124-passenger younger sister of the Carnival Spirit, the ship we took on an unforgettable Alaskan Inside Passage vacation in 2004. Big fans of Carnival’s “Spirit Class,” which features an impressive 80% ratio of outside cabins and an easily navigatable deck plan, we embraced the familiarity of the Miracle and our private balcony, except when our neighbors to the left lit up, that is. What was smokin’, in a positive sense, was the wait staff and all but a few dishes served in the Bacchus Dining Room, the two Vegas-style shows in the 1,160-seat Phantom Lounge and the international crew of 930, save for a handful of clunkers. On the negative side, a big disappointment were the activities for the 9- to 11-year-olds. The children, including our youngest, didn’t click on this cruise, and a big reason for that were the lackluster activities and counselors. Other parents made the same remark. Then there was the dinner at Nick and Nora’s Supper Club. The stately restaurant promises a “6-star” dining experience for an additional $30 per person, but my wife and I sat next to two empty tables with dirty dishes not cleared from the time of our first course to when we left. Plus, the bread basket never came around a second time, my Caesar salad prepared tableside was made halfway across the floor (“Sorry, sir, but there’s no room to bring the cart to your table”), the server was mechanical, and although I’m sure the ingredients were of a higher quality, very little justified our passing on the regular dinner. Maybe this was just an off-night for them. These exceptions notwithstanding, you get what you pay for with Carnival, and that means a quality cruise vacation at an affordable price. Considering what it takes to keep a couple thousand demanding passengers fat and happy, Carnival gets high marks on the high seas. As for the ports …. Grand Cayman The law prohibits beggars and panhandlers, but that doesn’t stop swarms of stingrays from harassing hundreds of tourists for morsels of squid. Oh yeah, that’s what we want these gentle giants to do. One of the must-do shore excursions is a visit to Stingray City, a shallow off-shore sandbar where the non-intimidated can swim and play with docile Southern rays. Feeding time can be scary for small fries and adults alike, not just because the rays can measure 6 feet in length, but because they suck up the squid like a powerful vacuum cleaner from their underside. Welcoming the tenders in George Town are several operators happy to take you to Stingray City. Word is they’re all reputable, but I suggest you play it safe by booking through the ship (prices start at $45, $38 for children) or on your own (and saving dough) with Capt. Marvin’s Watersports, which offers a well-run tour that includes two half-hour snorkel stops before heading for the city of rays. Other popular attractions, both on the West Bay north of picturesque Seven Mile Beach, are the Cayman Turtle Farm, where thousands of the namesakes can be observed in various stages of growth, and Hell, a teeny town with a post office and a couple of gift shops that got its name from a massive coral formation that resembles charred ruins. Mail a postcard from there for the postmark. Nothing like sending friends and loved ones a message from Hell stating, “Wish you were here.” Rarely do I recommend dining in port because the food is usually much better on the ship and, well, you already paid for it. Make an exception at Champion House in George Town for excellent local food and scant few tourists. Cozumel Cozumel’s proximity to spectacular coral reefs makes this small island off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula a water lover’s paradise. A plethora of shore excursions plays to this. A 45-minute ferry ride away is Playa del Carmen, a mainland resort town and hub for day trips to the popular Mayan sites of Chichen Itza and Tulum. No time to check out the touristy Carlos & Charlie’s watering hole here, as this family headed off to the jungle for a new 3-in-1 combination tour offered by Carnival. The 7-hour Mayan Jungle Explorer tour had us biking, snorkeling and zip lining in a pretty area called Chick-Ha. Zip lining, for the uninitiated, is when you ride from one platform to another while sitting in a harness attached to a series of cables and pullies. Snorkeling is done in a freshwater-filled limestone sinkhole called ceneotes, and this underwater adventure was as serene as it was exhilarating, a definite “keeper” in the memory bank. A pleasing Yucatecan lunch made for a full stomach and full day that’s well worth $109 per person. Belize Recent flooding in the area wiped out three of the more popular tours in this Central American country, so instead of golfing along the Caribbean Sea, zip lining through a lush jungle or cave tubing in the rainforest, many stayed onboard or took the 20-minute tender ashore. The 2 1⁄2-hour Airboat Adventure and City Tour wasn’t canceled, but the floods must have scared away the crocodiles, turtles and manatees that are promised by tour operator Bak-a-Bush in its brochure. Wildlife in Almond Hill Lagoon was limited to pretty birds, and the guide milked each one by pointing them out on our loaned bird-watcher charts. Based on our experience, the $85 price ($72 for children) is worth the money if you want the thrill of a high-speed airboat ride. The bus ride through depressed Belize City to and from the airboat outpost makes one appreciate what they have back home. Belize is growing as a cruise and vacation destination, and I’m certain there’s good reason, but from what I saw the country has a lot of work to do. Puerto Costa Maya What we thought would be the dog of the four ports turned out to be the best. The shops and restaurants that make up a faux Mexican village aren’t accessible to non-cruise ship passengers, giving it a plus in that the place is kept free from undesirable elements, but a minus in that it lacks character. The Dune Beach Buggy Adventure offered by Carnival through Pelicanos Tours was extremely well run and a load of fun, though not one description I read about this shore excursion notes that the driver needs to know how to drive a stick shift. A welcome bonus was the refreshments-provided beach break in a secluded area just past the fishing village of Mahaual. Speaking of Mahaual, another restaurant worthy of skipping a meal on the ship is at the hotel La Posada de los 40 Can´ones. The lobster, cheese quesadillas and homemade chips are as tasty as the affiliated Pez Quadro Beach Club across the street is inviting. Another grande thumb’s up to Horse Ranch Adventure, home of the best ride my family has ever experienced. Horses and staff were first-rate, and the setting of a lush jungle rich in Mayan culture was spectacular. A 2-hour ride can cost as little as $55 if you book it yourself. Not so wonderful was the tour to the Chacchoben Mayan ruins. Learning local history is important, especially when it dates back to 360 A.D., but the “scenic 1-hour drive” isn’t all that scenic and the 2 1/2 hours spent at the ruins should be cut in half. If you must see them and are a trustworthy soul, take a cab and avoid the joke price of $69 per person. Tampa A cruise out of the Port of Tampa gives families an opportunity to extend their vacation. Busch Gardens is a big reason why, with its winning combination of a roller-coaster theme park and a zoo specializing in African animals. The sprawling grounds are well maintained and I can’t remember another time when a theme park visit didn’t include a broken-down ride. Discounts are widely available, but expect to pay around $50 a head. The Serengeti Safari “Up Close Tour” gives visitors an opportunity to hand feed giraffes from an open truck, but the $34 additional fee per person is a tad dear for something that lasts half an hour. The Florida Aquarium ($18 for adults, $13 children) will disappoint those who have been to the fish zoos in Long Beach, Monterey and Maui. Highly recommended is Tampa’s Renaissance Hotel, located a short free shuttle trip from Tampa International Airport and a 10-minute cab ride from the cruise ship terminals. The 2-year-old, 293-room hotel is adjacent to the upscale International Plaza and Bay Street, which is like a hybrid of South Coast Plaza and Fashion Island. The property’s signature restaurant, Pelagia Trattoria, is too good to be called a “hotel restaurant,” but, like the rest of the Mediterranean-style hotel, it is quite family friendly. IF YOU GO Carnival Cruises: 888.CARNIVAL; carnival.com Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands Cayman Islands Department of Tourism: 877.4CAYMAN; caymanislands.ky Capt. Marvin’s Watersports: 345.945.7306; captainmarvins.com Champion House Restaurant: 345.949.7882; cayman123.com Cozumel, Mexico Cozumel Department of Tourism: islacozumel.com.mx Dive Cozumel: 800.433.7519; divecozumel.com Belize City, Belize Belize Tourism Board: 800.624.0686; travelbelize.org Bak-a-Bush Adventures: chukkacaribbean.com/belize/airboat Costa Maya, Mexico Pelicanos Tours: pelicanos.com.mx Horse Ranch Adventures: costa-maya-tours.com Aviomar Ground Tours: aviomar.com Tampa Tampa Bay Convention & Visitors Bureau: 800.44.TAMPA; visittampabay.com Renaissance Tampa Hotel International Plaza: 800.644.2685; renaissancetampa.com Busch Gardens: 888.800.5447; buschgardens.com The Florida Aquarium: 813.273.4000; flaquarium.org |
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