EVERYTHING
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Take in just a part of the splendor, a step at a time My family practically grew up in Big Sur, spending eight straight summers there; in the ninth summer, my brother and I worked at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn. This year, in the same cabin under a covey of redwood trees where I first rested my head at age 7 1/2, my 8 1/2-year-old twins drifted off to sleep next to our 12-year-old. Big Sur, along 80 miles of coastline north of San Simeon and south of Carmel, is best for families with children ages 8 through the teen years. That is, if you want to walk the forests and play on the beaches, and to be portable enough to go to a selective number of restaurants. Big Sur is best for hiking, camping, eating and whittling. This stretch of Highway 1 is among the most picturesque settings in the world, hanging as it does above the Pacific Ocean. The following is an itinerary for five days, and can be pared or expanded, depending on length of stay: • Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park is well-placed in the heart of Big Sur, for camping and for day use. We walked the children to the river gorge (park in Parking Lot 3), where, with the help of water shoes, visitors can climb over rocks and boulders and wade into the relatively tame water. Choose a sunny day, kick back, and enjoy. • Just one-quarter-mile south of the state park is the Big Sur Station; here you can get maps and other information from the U.S. Forest Service office. Also, there is a trailhead that takes you as far as you want to go into the Ventana Wilderness Area. We hiked along a narrow, breathtaking path and found a clearing about 1 1/2 miles into the trail, next to where a couple of boards cross the creek. Here, we stopped for a pleasant picnic. This hike can be as hard, or as easy, as you want it, depending upon length. Bring plenty of water. Another option: Inquire at the office about access to Coast Ridge Road. • Pfeiffer Beach is a must-see but requires some direction from the locals because the entrance off Highway 1 is unmarked. The steep road takes you to the famous beach, where waves crash through rocky outcroppings and where movies and TV shows (think, “Then Came Bronson”) have been filmed. Lots of beach area for a picnic. Beware of windy days and don’t let the children go very far into the cold water because of a strong current. • Andrew Molera State Park is on the northern end of Big Sur, near Point Sur (an off-limits naval station with a lighthouse). After parking, a 1.2-mile pleasant walk through mostly meadow areas – you get to cross the beautiful Big Sur River – will bring state park visitors to a rocky, driftwood-strewn beach where the children can add to driftwood pilings and informal huts. Again, the wind can kick up. • A hike in the woods. There are several trails that are well-marked off Highway 1. This is redwood country, and the more you can get into it, the more you will understand the beauty. One of our best moments was finding a bench at the edge of the woods, overlooking the highway and the coastline. Mom and one of the twins read books and the other two boys and I whittled on walking sticks. And they read, and we whittled. No TV, no computers, no distractions, and no rush. IF YOU GO: Big Sur is between 7 and 10 hours from Orange County and parts of the Inland Empire, depending upon the number of stops. En route there: A good place to stop for breakfast, should you leave early enough to beat Los Angeles traffic, is either in Summerland just before Santa Barbara, or along State Street in the city, where a number of restaurants await. For a picnic lunch, consider San Simeon State Park just across from Hearst Castle. These two breaks along the way will help space out the trip. After San Simeon, Highway 1 gets twisty. Real twisty. Also en route: Stopovers for either camping or resting include state parks north of Santa Barbara along Highway 101: El Capitan State Beach, Refugio State Beach, and Gaviota State Park. The first two require reservations for camping; the third is first-come, first-served. Any of these are good stopping points for a picnic or walk on the beach; we prefer El Capitan. Camping info: 800.444.7275; for general information: 800.968.1033. If you stay: There is an excellent campground at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and there is the lodge there (800.424.4787 or parks.ca.gov/?page_id=570; the Big Sur River Inn, which has a pool (831.667.2700 or bigsurriverinn.com); the Ventana Inn & Spa (ventanainn.com); and the very expensive Post Ranch Inn (postranchinn.com). We stayed at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn, a rustic, historic, 1930s inn with 20 rooms and its own forest. There are some limitations for families with children because of the paper-thin walls, but the Creek House (lower is slightly larger, upper has a convenient balcony) welcome children. Rates from $75-$180 a night. As with anything in Big Sur, book way in advance. Information: 831.667.2377 or deetjens.com If you eat: Food and groceries are expensive, so bring as many supplies as you can to take care of breakfast and lunch. Consider water, milk, cereal, soda, bread, lunch meats and fruit. Our friend brought a portable Coleman stove and we had pancakes nearly every morning. As far as restaurants: The Big Sur Inn is simply one of the best restaurants in California, though its menu skews to the adult crowd. One night we ordered pizza for the children from Fernwood, along the highway north of Nepenthe. We had multiple dinners at the best restaurant we could find for children called Big Sur River Inn, a bit farther north of Fernwood. At the River Inn, take a moment to walk out back to the river, where chairs, yes, chairs, await you in the shallow water. This is a good place for the kids to romp before or after a meal. Also, consider Nepenthe. If you choose well (the Ambrosia Burger, for one), Nepenthe can be relatively affordable in a beautiful setting. For adults: The gift shop at Nepenthe (The Phoenix) is unique and worth a stop. Also, the restaurant, perched on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, is great for a nightcap on the patio, or a late dinner. Also for adults, the Henry Miller Memorial Library, one-quarter-mile south of Nepenthe, has events weekly, such as a short-film night, public readings and local bands. It serves as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. One more thought: The Esalen Institute is famed for mineral baths and wellness workshops, and takes visitors by reservation only. Clothing optional in certain areas and the public can, through reservation, take in a 1-3 a.m., after-midnight dip. Information: 831.667.3000. About the weather: Big Sur is a climate within a climate – warm in the sun, a bit chilly in the woods. Pack accordingly, and bring a second set of comfortable walking/hiking shoes. Another hike that we’ve missed: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, south of Big Sur as the highway starts its long, winding route, is home to the McWay Waterfalls, which empty into the sea. Excursions north: Should you continue north from Big Sur, Monterey is about 35 miles away and a trip to the aquarium is a must. |
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