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Editor’s Note: This is the second in an occasional series, Across America, in which we report on family vacations beyond the immediate Southern California region. Buffalo, N.Y., has a few things going for it, with perhaps the best sales pitch being location, location, location. In terms of geography closeness to Canada and relative closeness to stunning upstate New York the city is a good starting point to travel elsewhere with the family. Here is what we did in two weeks as we drove to and from a family cottage on the Canadian side of Lake Erie, some 20 minutes from Buffalo: Niagara Falls One of the world’s natural wonders is Niagara Falls, which can be experienced from either the Canadian or American side. Go through Canada, which is prettier, more accessible, and less touristy. The drive is less than one hour from Buffalo across the Peace Bridge into Canada. Once across the bridge, take the picturesque Niagara Parkway that parallels the Niagara River the tributary that flows from Lake Erie across the Falls and into Lake Ontario. Some of Canada’s most picturesque homes rim the Parkway, so stop along the turnouts and enjoy the drive. When at the Falls…board the Maid of the Mist, the two-decker boat that takes you right to the base of the Falls. Suitable for children ages 7 and older, you will receive a poncho, get wet, and probably scream for joy as you experience the closeness and wetness, the beauty and the power of this place. (Bring an extra set of clothing and shoes in case you get really wet and have to go back to the car for a quick change. It is fine to wear sturdy sandals on board.) IF YOU GO: Eat lunch at Edgewaters Grill, across the street from the Falls (Canadian side) in the Queen Victoria Plaza. Request an open-air, second-floor table that provides the best view in the world, literally. If you stay, a number of B&Bs are located just north of the Falls along River Road. One of the most popular is the Chestnut Inn, 4983 River Road (905.374.7623). Farther north, visit the Butterfly Conservatory and Botanical Gardens. And, a bit farther, consider a visit to the artistic village of Niagara-on-the-Lake, home of the internationally known Shaw Festival. For a family meal, try The Buttery, on Queen Street; for couples only, dine at the Oban Inn. Also, take the children to Fort George, a key battleground in the War of 1812. About those forts…one of the most stunning is across the Rainbow Bridge at Niagara Falls onto American soil. Head north for about 20 minutes to Fort Niagara, another key stronghold from the Revolutionary War onward and strategically located at the mouth of the Niagara River. Fort Niagara is part of a large state park system, so this is a good place to bring a picnic, eat outside the walls, and spend a day as the kids kick a soccer ball or throw a baseball before or after they pretend to shoot the cannons. In preparing to visit these two forts, as well as the smaller Fort Erie on the Canadian side of the Peace Bridge near Buffalo, go online before your vacation to see when re-enactments are planned. These special weekends combine history with the loud clap of gunfire. Cooperstown Some 230 miles east from Buffalo, about a 5-hour drive, is a town that is everything baseball. The National Baseball Hall of Fame is worth the trip for any family that considers the sport a part of who they are (Go, Angels). Nearly every Little League team in New York makes the pilgrimage here, and each year, nearby Doubleday Field the reported spot when Abner Doubleday dreamed up the game hosts the Hall of Fame inductions. At the museum, the displays are both a walk through the game’s history as well as a lesson on how much baseball entwines itself in American history. Give your family some 3-4 hours inside, but try to break up the visit with lunch and shopping along Main Street. We suggest the family friendly Doubleday Café, 93 Main St. And as for shopping, this is the world’s biggest bazaar for baseball stuff. Just go store to store until you find the right fit in T-shirts or personalized bats, baseballs, cards or old-timers signing autographs (the day we were there, former Yankee third baseman Clete Boyer was in town). The museum has some 35,000 artifacts inside, so you may want to choose to focus on an era, or a player my children are fascinated with Babe Ruth or the many interactive things that keep a young person’s attention. When you get to the Gallery of Plaques, you’ll be among the greatest players in history. IF YOU GO: Information at baseballhallofame.org. By the way, Cooperstown itself has more than baseball going for it. A picturesque village on the shores of Lake Otsego, it also has The Fenimore Art Museum and the fun Farmers’ Museum. The Adirondacks and The Sagamore Resort Some 3 hours northeast from Cooperstown, we arrived in the midst of the 6 million acres of upstate’s Adirondack Mountains a forest of beauty. Moments after we checked in, a young lady walked by with a T-shirt: “It’s better in the Hamptons.” Actually, on this day and at this place, this was better, much better. The Sagamore is a family friendly resort that, since 1883, has made the most of being on its own 70-acre island along the shores of the majestic, 32-mile-long Lake George. A couple of fires in the old days set The Sagamore back, but the resort at Bolton Landing reopened for good in 1930 and has been renovated several times since then. It is, as once advertised, “old-world elegance and 20th century sophistication.” Make that 21st century. In summer, keep all eyes pointed to the water. The indoor pool is adequate and good for when the weather changes (and it does, suddenly, in the East). Rent a motorboat and an inner tube that you can pull behind and take at least a one-hour cruise of the lake. Stop at some of the many little islands and, if you are brave like my 10-year-old son, jump off the boat, swim to one of them and be a beachcomer. He and I also signed up for the newly offered Offshore Sailing School, which did three things: It gave his newfound love of sailing an extra push on a Colgate 26 and the class put us back on the lake. Also, our excellent skipper showed us the lake from a local perspective, complete with history (the Last of the Mohicans is a true story that played out here), with geography (the lake is 200 feet at its deepest point), and with an explanation about why winter is so cool around here (the lake freezes, the ice skates come out, the ice fishing begins, and a carnival is held; for those who like skiing, Lake Placid, host of the 1980 Winter Olympic Games, is nearby). The Sagamore is listed in the 2004 “Historic Hotels of America,” published by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. “It is laid-back elegance,” a spokeswoman says, and she is right. IF YOU GO: Rates depend on the season: about $180 to more than $500. Information about the 350 rooms and suites: 800.358.3585 or www.thesagamore.com. A suite includes a kitchen to take care of breakfasts and lunches if you stay more than a night or two. Hiking: You are in the midst of millions of acres of forest, so take advantage. Ask the concierge for a trails map. I took one of my 7-year-old twins on an abbreviated hike. Some 6 miles from Bolton Landing, we parked at Clay Meadows and walked for an hour toward Fifth Peak, some 2.6 miles of sometimes rugged climbing. The view of Lake George, I am told, is stunning. Our hike was leisurely and a perfect “Daddy and Me” time together. Other summer activities: A par-70 golf course; a miniature golf course; tennis; racquetball; a little “beach” at lakeside for sunbathing and swimming; boat tours and rentals; kayaking; and water-skiing. Consider the spa to give mom a present (a massage) and take advantage of an early morning fitness walk or lakeside yoga class. Outside The Sagamore, the amusement park The Great Escape in the nearby village Lake George was a pleasant surprise for all of us who hold up Disneyland as the gold standard. Go on the half-century-old roller coaster, The Comet. Also, the resort can book nearby horseback riding. For parents: Consider taking advantage of the Teepee Club, so you two can get away for an afternoon or a dinner. If you consider afternoon tea, bring appropriate clothing (the resort is not stuffy, but it is elegant, so take some nice clothes for everyone). For children ages 4-12, the Teepee enrichment program is offered for full day, half-day, or evening and includes crafts, recreation and scavenger hunts. Drive time: Some 6 hours east of Buffalo, a 1-hour drive from Albany, a 4-hour drive from New York City, and 4 hours northwest of Boston. DESERT GETAWAY Palm Springs to Indian Wells a circle of family fun You never really need to go very far to do an awful lot in the Indian Wells, Palm Desert, Palm Springs area. The drive is close and the weather, when it is not summer, is ideal. Here are four tips for navigating a brief vacation with children of most any age as well as other ideas. Hiking. There is much to see, from the foothills above Palm Springs to a wonderfully situated desert hike within the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens (more about that later) to more rugged treks in nearby desert land. For children about our ages 7-10 we chose the Desert “Bump-n-Grind” Trail in Rancho Mirage, near our hotel. From Highway 111, turn toward the hills on Magnesia Falls. You’ll park near the trailhead, which begins as a fire road next to a dry creek. You can descend as far as the little legs will last, taking in canyon views and beautiful vistas branching out deep into the desert. We didn’t make it to the end, but it is about 2 miles one way and is considered a moderate hike, going from 250 feet to about 1,000 feet. Bring plenty of water and stop for photos and views along the way. For more intense hiking tours that include Joshua Tree National Park, Indian Canyons, Morongo Preserve, Coachella Valley Preserve and others, get information from Big Wheel Tours, 760.779.1837 or www.bwbtours.com. A park isn’t necessarily a tip, but this one qualifies. The Palm Desert Civic Center Park has everything for a day of picnicking and fun. There are large areas of grass to kick the soccer ball, long lines of pavement for scooters and skateboards, a medium-sized skate park, picnic tables, tennis courts, a sand volleyball court, baseball fields and a real date field. You can sit on a grassy bluff and watch the children romp around the play area. From Highway 111 in Palm Desert, turn away from the hills on San Pablo, drive across Fred Waring Boulevard and the park will be on your right past the civic building. The Living Desert Zoo & Gardens is a wonder, an absolute wonder. A visit to the 35-year-old, 1,200-acre Palm Desert preserve will keep the family enthralled for hours. It simply matches up with the best of these kinds of places with an added advantage it opens into an extensive wilderness trail system that brings home most everything you experience on the grounds. You go from nature as the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens has prepared it, to nature itself. You can hike for hours; our family dipped in for a short walk of about an hour round-trip. Inside the grounds, you’ll find more than 150 species of animals, from coyotes to lions to zebras, cheetahs, meerkats and all kinds of desert snakes. There are Native American exhibits and special events. Information: 760.346.5694 or www.livingdesert.org. Your hotel. Pick a place that is centrally located and that has enough amenities including pool options to keep the children interested. We stayed at the Hyatt Grand Champions Resort in Indian Wells, just off Highway 111, which put us close to most everything mentioned in this story. We knew we were in the right place when, walking down the hallway after check-in, we passed Camp Hyatt (half-day and full-day options for children ages 3-12 that include crafts, nature exploring, storytelling, pool time and other activities). My wife led a scouting party out our back sliding door and returned 10 minutes later: “Yep, there are six pools and a water slide.” Truth be told, the water slide probably was the highlight for our children. Information: 760.341.1000 or www.grandchampions.hyatt.com. Here is a list of family options that are highly recommended. Aerial Tramway. Right outside Palm Springs, this takes you high above the desert to a mountaintop where, during several months of the year, you will find snow (bring jackets). When we visited in early November, there was plenty of snow. The ride’s the thing, rising more than 2 1/2 miles to Mount St. Jacinto State Park. Once on top, you can picnic, hike and, with reservations, camp. A restaurant (760.327.1590) is open for lunch and dinner. Information: 760.325.1449 or www.pstramway.com. Children’s Discovery Museum. In Rancho Mirage, the museum is a hands-on, interactive kind of place. This includes Dig It, an archeological dig where children can search for Indian artifact replicas. Information: 760.321.0602 or www.cdmod.org. Palm Springs Air Museum. A wide range of historical aircraft, mostly World War II vintage, is at hand. All are operable and on selected days there are exhibition flights. A plus: At least one plane can be toured on the inside. Information: 760.778.6262. The Cabazon Outlets is en route back to the Inland Empire-Orange County area. Lots of clothes for the whole family. |
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